Soon-to-open eatery will feature Mediterranean cuisine

Visiting the kitchen at the soon-to-open Kismet Cafe in Ridgway is a little bit like watching “America’s Test Kitchen” on TV.

Chef Patrick Hurtt is trying another flatbread recipe – this one with more sour cream and maybe a little more water. It’s just the latest of his many experiments to get the right chew, the right fluff, the right texture at nearly 7,000 feet in elevation.

But it’s not just about the ingredients and their ratios – it’s also about cooking methods. Last week, he experimented with 24 different scenarios, tweaking and testing, baking, grilling and kneading.

Getting it right is something he wants to get right from the beginning.

The action in this laboratory buzzing with stretchy dough and earthy spices is laying the foundation for the Kismet Cafe, opening in the former Lotus Root Cafe and Market at 618 Clinton St. in October.

Nate and Tera Wick, the owners of Cimarron Coffee & Books in Ridgway, purchased the business from Honga Im and Jesse Vaughan. Lotus Root will continue to operate as a catering company.

Tera also works for the town of Ridgway as the community initiatives facilitator and will continue in that position.

Kismet Cafe’s menu hasn’t been finalized yet, but diners can expect lots of vegetables, legumes, house-made pickles, and dishes served “mezze-style”, which usually includes hot and cold small dishes to make a meal with dips like hummus, often accompanied by pita or other flatbread.

Hurtt said he’s been energized by the Wicks’ encouragement and openness for input on the menu. The Cordon Bleu-trained chef has been working in restaurants for 17 years and is looking forward to this next adventure.

“It’s a really safe, comfortable work environment,” he said. “They want to see people succeed with the skills that they have.”

The menu emphasizes fresh ingredients, bold flavors and Mediterranean cuisine, inspired by what the Wicks like to eat and the experience drawn on from a longtime friend who grew up in a Lebanese family with a restaurant.

The chance to purchase the business in the space, Lotus Root, surfaced in July. The Wicks, who purchased Cimarron Coffee in November 2020, knew they needed a plan B for that business.

The building where Cimarron Coffee is located has been for sale for more than a year, and the uncertainty of their ability to stay in the space prompted them to start looking for ideas.

Since the old Lupita’s building went on the market, the couple has been exploring options for a backup location for the coffee shop but also were open to the idea of expanding. The coffee shop’s lease is up in June, and who knows what could happen after that.

“We want to continue operating it there for as long as we can,” Tera said. But at the Kismet Cafe location, they have a multiyear lease with the option to renew, providing more security.

The new Kismet Cafe also allows them to have a commercial kitchen where they can make their own breakfast burritos and pastries for the coffee shop.

The opportunity to purchase the business, move into the space and launch a new concept seems like it was meant to be – one of the inspirations for the name, which means “meant to be.”

The name of the restaurant was all around them, it seemed – they live on Kismet Street, their friend’s dog is named Kismet, and it’s another friend’s middle name.

The name change was just the beginning of the changes they’re bringing to transform the space.

At first, they planned on keeping the concept of the grocery store and fast-casual, freshly made foods Lotus Root offered. They planned to keep going with that and make changes later, But a delay in their ability to secure insurance made them stop and think about the whole operation.

They realized they didn’t really want to operate a grocery. They wanted more space for people to gather, a spot to linger for a while and enjoy food. And so they switched gears.

“When we realized we would be closed for a week, we decided to just rip the Band-Aid off,” said Nate.

They focused and simplified, and consulted with their close family friend, Karim Alaeddine, whom they’ve known for more than 20 years. And they started planning the concept for a Mediterranean restaurant with counter service.

They both feel a strong responsibility to represent the culture with authentic foods.

“We recognize this isn’t our cultural heritage,” Tera said. “We want to do it really right.”

For now, the goals are to offer the best food quality at the best value. They also want a place families can come with their kids and to create a welcoming, community- oriented place with a homey environment where everyone is welcome.

For current hours and a menu, visit kismetcaferidgway.com.