BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON — Campgrounds filled with families just a matter of days before are surrounded by a web of spidery, blackened trees. Bare branches create windows between campsites where all that’s left are melted picnic tables and ash-filled firepits, mimicking the surrounding landscape. At the edge of the treeline, smoke rises steadily from the canyon where fire churns along the harsh slopes, inaccessible to firefighters.